Realisation of a bouldering dream
As I didn´t want to spend my semestervacations, in the grey winter of the northern part of the San Bernadino, I decided to stay another month in my beloved Ticino. After I had pretty much reached all my goals for this bouldering season in January because I was able to climb The Dagger fb 8b+ and did an FA in Bodio, which felt as hard as the Dagger to me. Since then I was searching for a new challenge. During the time that I spent working on The Dagger, I sometimes went on the other side of the boulder in order to play around on the stand start of Dreamtime.
Dreamtime was first ascented as the first 8c, by no other then the legendary Fred Nicole, got downgraded to 8b+, a few years ago a big part of the big hold in the middle section broke and after that it got refirst ascented by Adam Ondra. For me this boulder is truely THE Line in Cresciano, when I was with a friend of mine for the first time bouldering in Ticino, he showed me this line and explained that it is Freds masterpiece. After touching the holds, I was deeply impressed and overwelmed by the line. But I could not imagen to even leave the ground with these holds. So we went onwards and I climbed my first fb 6c+ slopertraverse this trip.
A few years past and I have gotten stronger also because I was bouldering a lot in Ticino during the winter time. Surely I sometimes walked pass the Dreamtimeboulder. However I knew I am way to weak to try it, but at that time this and other hard boulders had literally been parts of my dreams. These visions are my sources of motivation beside the beauty of a line.
So this year I played around at the standstart and finally found a good , but pretty extended beta and was able to climb it. At that time I thought the first time that I might try to climb the full line, finally I had to work out the pretty powerfull bottom moves. The heelhook move drove me nearly crazy, but even this part of the puzzle got solved and the goal for the semesterholidays in february was set.
I rented out a place in Claro together with good friends thankfully to the warm and snowless winter, I could try and train nearly everyday on my project when I felt well rested and my skin was heeled up. After a few days I was able to make a lot of good tries within one session. But I also have climed a bunch of other problembs because the fingers and the skin suffer a lot on the small crimps. Additionally I had to be 100% recovered and the conditions had to be prime, also I didn´t wanted to believe this a few times.
The crux for me was definetaly located in the standstart, it was the far move out left, from two razor crimps, to a slopy sidepull crimp, which I had to hit perfectly. When I did that move the problem went down, but I kept falling at least 25 times there over a few days.
Unfortunately I wasn´t able to complete the boulder during my holidays, but I rested 3 days at home and then came back for the weekend, although the forecast wasn´t stabil at all. So I stood in front of a wet Dreamtime on saturday, but I didn´t want to rest another day, so I desperatly tried to dry the holds. I even made it five times to the crux, just in order to slip with wet fingers out of the wall. Due to the fact that I had to drive to Innsbruk on sunday, I tried my luck on the second climbing day although I normally don´t climb very well on the second day on.
But low expectations are sometimes the key, if a boulder got mental anyways and the conditions had just been perfect. I felt a little sore during warmup,but my skin got really nice and cold in the wind. I arranged all my pads and set on the start of the boulder and concentrated. Then I climbed very relaxed to my crux and dug deep, suprisingly I stuck the left sidepull and was hanging totally perplex in the boulder. Now I knew I am not allowed to fall because you never know when you will be able to stick it again. So I turned the autopilot on and suddenly stood on top of the boulder of my dreams!! I couldn´t belive it! That was such a big relief for myself and definetly may hardest boulder to date, but everybody knows, after the project is before the project!
For Stefan Krüzi`s amazing pictures check out the gallery!